Shopping at thrift stores for clothes to refashion is a bit different from typical thrift store shopping — instead of looking for cute clothes that will work as-is in your wardrobe, you are looking instead for clothes to cut up, sew back together and generally transform into a completely different garment.  When shopping at thrift stores for clothes to refashion, look for clothing in large sizes, that are made from natural fibers. Also keep an eye out for special details in the garment that can be repurposed, and look for markers of authenticity (like labels). Finally, consider shopping at thrift stores in ethnic neighborhoods — those thrift stores can often have some really great unexpected gems.

Below is a list of the things that I look for when shopping at thrift stores.

1. Look for large pieces of fabric in natural fibers.

In general, I try to treat the thrift store like a giant discount fabric store: anything that is a large piece of fabric is potentially a great find for refashioning.  The housewares department is a particularly good source of great fabric finds.  For example, bed sheets and table linens are a great source of large pieces of cotton and linen.  Wool blankets are a great source of heavy wool fabric.  Curtains are a great source of embellished silks and gauzy sheer fabrics. (If you can’t imagine how household textiles can be sewn into garments, check out my post here — I wrote an entire blog post on the topic.)

I also try to keep an eye on the fiber content of the fabric.  I generally try to stick to clothes and housewares made out of natural fibers (cotton, wool, linen, silk) and avoid man-made fibers (polyester, nylon).  This is because man-made fibers don’t feel as nice against the skin, they don’t breathe as well and they can be harder to sew and press.  Man-made fibers also don’t take dye as well as natural fibers (and you might want to have the option to dye your refashioned garment).  It is easier to determine fiber content at the thrift store than at your typical fabric store – at least at the thrift store, the clothes generally have labels telling you the composition of your fabric, whereas fabric stores (especially the low-end ones) often don’t mark the fiber content of their fabrics.

2. Look for large clothing with a lot of excess fabric.

When I am shopping for clothing to wear as-is, I am usually looking for clothes in exactly my size, but when I am shopping for clothes to refashion, I generally want to shop the racks with large and extra-large clothing.  Why?  Because these clothes have the most fabric, which in turn gives you maximum flexibility when you’re refashioning the garment.

In a similar vein, consider buying something with long sleeves and voluminous skirts, even if you aren’t planning to make anything with long sleeves and full skirts.  You can use the fabric in the sleeves and skirt elsewhere in your refashioned garment.  You will be surprised how much fabric is in a full circle skirt!

3. Look for markers of quality and authenticity.

For the most part, the racks of thrift stores are overflowing with cheap, fast-fashion junk, but once in a blue moon, you might come across a real gem hidden away in the racks.  For example, I recently found a vintage Pendleton wool blanket at thrift store, and it came complete with a label confirming its authenticity:

So check the labels on the clothing, and get to know the classic clothing makers and textile manufacturers of bygone eras, so you know how to spot quality when you see it.  Everyone knows to look for famous designers like Alexander McQueen or Vivienne Westwood, but do you know about renowned textile manufacturers like Loro Piana or classic clothing manufacturers like Woolrich or Brooks Brothers?

4. Look for discounts.

Most thrift stores will have special limited-time discounts, like special discount days.  At my local Goodwill, all clothing marked with a certain color tag is discounted by 40% each week.  Keep an eye out for those discounts when you’re shopping – they can make an already cheap thrifted garment even cheaper!

To really make the most of these discounts, get to know your local thrift stores and learn when they restock their merchandise.  For example, if your local thrift store restocks on Monday, most of the best discounted merchandise will be gone by Friday, so don’t wait until the end of the week to shop.

5. Look for special details that you can repurpose in your new garment.

When I am shopping for clothing to refashion, I sometimes look for clothing that has really unique details that I can cut out and repurpose in my new garment.  For example, t-shirts might have logos that I can cut out and applique somewhere else.  A dress might have some lovely lace, trim or beading that I can cut off and use to embellish my refashioned garment.  A shirt or jacket might have a dramatic collar that I can cut off and incorporate into something else.  A lot of clothing and home textiles will have special edge finishes, like ribbing or bound edges, that can be used in the new garment (for example, you can cut the pieces for the new garment such that you take advantage of the existing edge finish, like I did with my cropped cardigan refashion).

6. Look for fabric that is in good condition and is not warped.

It sounds obvious, but don’t buy clothing where the fabric is warped.  When fabric warps, the grain line is not straight and any clothing you make out of it will not drape on the body properly.  If the clothing looks like it has been through the wringer in the washing machine or dryer, don’t buy it, no matter how pretty it is.

On the other hand, don’t (necessarily) be put off by stains.  Many stains come out with washing or bleaching. Even if they don’t come out, if the stains are small, you might be able to position your pattern pieces to cut around them, or you can use the stained portion of the fabric on facings that will only show on the inside of the garment.  Don’t be put off by wrinkles either, as you (or your dry cleaner) might be able to iron and steam the wrinkles out of the fabric.  The upside to being flexible about stains and wrinkles is that you can often bargain down the price of something that is slightly stained or worn – leaving you more money to spend on sewing supplies!

7. Look for thrift stores in ethnic neighborhoods.

In general, try to avoid thrift stores in gentrified neighborhoods, as these stores often have higher prices and smaller stock.  Instead, shop at thrift stores in ethnic neighborhoods because the prices are (generally) lower and there can be some really unique items.  New York City, with its diversity of different ethnic neighborhoods, is really great for this.  For example, I recently decided to check out a thrift store in Sheepshead, a primarily Eastern European neighborhood in Brooklyn, because I was looking for a vintage Soviet-era wool blanket for a refashioning project.  If I was looking for Chinese brocades or satin fabric, I might head to Flushing, a neighborhood populated by Chinese immigrants.

8. Have a plan beforehand and shop according to your plan.

Personally, I don’t think thrift stores are great “browsing” places – it is easy to overwhelmed by the vast array of merchandise, especially in places like Goodwill and the Salvation Army that do not curate their selection.  Instead, I always shop at the thrift store with a specific project in mind, so I am guided in my search.  I might be looking for great wool blankets to make into a coat, or a bridesmaid dress to turn into a cocktail dress, but the key is I almost never just wander in and see what strikes my fancy.

With these tips in mind, your next thrift store shopping excursion will be a success!  Tell me: what are your favorite thrift stores to shop at (bonus points if they are in NYC)?  Let me know in the comments below.